Men of the Forest: the primates of Borneo

Sabah, Borneo, 21 April 2016 I’m staring out the window of a 737 as we clear the coast of Borneo. Down below me is a sea of palm trees, one of the many palm oil plantations which have taken over the island in recent years, causing untold damage to the ecosystem. But from up here they…

A blessing from Mother Ganges

Evening is falling, and I am in a boat on the Ganges. We are in Varanasi, and have made our way downtown by cycle rickshaw, two of us ladies squeezed into a seat which was surely made for narrower hips than ours, pedalled through slums and down busy city streets to the river’s edge. It’s late…